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| Prince Edward Island |
Idle on an Idyllic Island
Most humans are entranced by islands
and we are no different; the notion of being cut off somehow appeals to the
child in all of us. Thus a vacation to Prince Edward Island (PEI), the smallest
province of Canada, also known as “The garden of the gulf” appeared to be the
best pick. The island is also known as the story book world of Lucy Maud Montgomery’s
novel- Anne of Green Gables. Sreeja and I had enjoyed feeling Anne Shirley’s vivid
imagination and it filled us with her delights of anticipation – The Idle wild!
The Lake of shining water! The Lover’s lane! And the ice cream
After a rather uneventful 24 hour train
ride from Toronto through Montreal, we got off at Moncton , New Brunswick,
rented a car, turned on the GPS and were all set to leave the mainland for
“that land over there”- PEI.
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| The Confederation bridge |
Soon we were on the 12.9 km confederation bridge that stretches from Cape Jourimain New Brunswick, across the Northumberland Strait to Carleton in PEI. We drove with the glistening blue harbor below us. A large fishing boat dwarfed by the confederation bridge, made its way between the large piers of the bridge, on its way to the wharf. As the bridge came to an end, the island revealed its soul through the gentleness of the land rolling down to the sea under the maritime light. The two lane highway circumnavigating the region with rich farmland laid out on the red earth on one side and the sea and sapphire blue sky on the other. There were farms with potatoes planted in perfectly straight rows, vibrant yellow corn fields speckled with strawberry plantations; round hay bales dotted the fields. The aesthetic blend of meandering brooks, mill ponds, well maintained frame houses, backyard garden, and white church steeples all combined to create a breath taking canvas.
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| Malpeque oysters |
On our way to the Rustico resort which was to be our home for the next three days, we saw the fishing boats lined up along the dock in the harbor, mussel buoys bobbing up and down with the gentle blue tide, lush green fields rolling down the water’s edge while the red clay banks painted a border around the edge of the shoreline. A visit to the Charlottetown followed later in the afternoon. It’s a small city with shaded streets and squares, stately Victorian houses and monumental churches. In 1864 it became the birthplace of Canada when delegates from Britain North American colonies convened in the province island and signed the articles that led to the Canadian Federation.
We devoured on tastiest Malpeque oysters, shellfish, and finfish, local wine and then watched the legendary Anne of Green Gables show at the Confederation centre.
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| Round hay bales dotted the field |
The sculpted green and fairness of the golf course inspired us to tee off in the morning at the Rustico golf course. The golden light pouring through the treetops bathed the fairways, the blue sky and the lapis blue water of St Lawrence was a perfect backdrop for some great golf swings. After playing 18 holes and a sumptuous brunch, we were on our way to Avonlea village located in the heart of the play town Cavendish. The Green Gable heritage site is located in the same house that Lucy Maud Montgomery had used as main setting for her famous novel - Anne of Green Gable. We walked down the Lover’s lane, Lake of shining water and suddenly I realized, we had landed in the Idlewild ! This classic story was indeed inspired by Montgomery’s deep attachment to natural beauty.
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| Anne of Green Gables House |
No part of the island is more than few hours walk from salt and water. We had turned off the GPS, got out the map and took a note of all little roads feathering off the main coastal roads. It was a great spot to idly meander-to hurry is not a PEI thing. The lobster traps and colorful buoys were stacked neatly on the wharf. The sun sculpted long shadow through the sand dunes at the Brackley beach, showcasing the finest coastal scenery. Arnab is not a big sun lover, so he dropped us at the beach and drove back to the resort for an afternoon snooze. Sreeja and I enjoyed the afternoon sun, built sand castles, swam in the warmish sea water and waited for the Piping plover to show up on the marshes. Brackley marsh is a stopover for migrating birds. Brackley was indeed a stunning spectacle as red sands set in a turquoise sea.
For the longest time the islanders could not own land. In 1767 the British Crown parceled out the island in 67 lots to about 100 British Noblemen, merchants and army officers in a lottery. It took over a century of appeals and arguments and even a bit of rebellion for the island to get recognized as a province of Canada and own a piece of land.
The history of the island evoked the nostalgia in me. In between the sea and the plains of Bengal, in the eastern part of India, lies this vast tract of red soil land, part of which has lasted through recorded history, while a part just washed into being. The river Mayurakshi flows wide amidst spreads of green countryside and the red soil interwoven with dreams of many poets. I was born on this riparian land. It was here Robert Clive defeated Sirajudaulah, the Nawab of Bengal in the famed battle of Palasi in 1757 which led to complete control over all trade activities in India and the British ruled India for the next 200 years.
Food is like a religion in Prince Edward Island. No-frills lobster supper is a classic dining experience. We had dinner at restaurant overlooking the Charlottetown marina and yacht club. The blossoming crab apple trees framed the view of the picturesque harbor. The lobsters were served with sides of accomplishments like chowder, mussels, PEI’s famed potatoes. A trip to PEI would be incomplete without tasting the fabled Cows creamery ice cream. It’s locally produced and definitely fit for the Gods. We tried the “Freckle Frenzy” a takeoff of Anne Shirley and Sreeja, our toy town girl was super excited when papa bought her a Cows T shirt.
Next day we drove through a web of side trails and quiet back roads to the ferry from Wood Island. After an hour of driving through the Acadian forest of Spruce, Pine, Birch, Oak, Fir, Elm and Maple, the sight of the light house and the red sanded cliffs of Wood Island carrying out their centuries old vigil of the sea lifted our moods. Soon we queued up the ram to board the Northumberland ferry to Caribou Nova Scotia. 
PEI affectionately known as Canada’s “million acre” farm is very different from the rest of Canada. It gives rise to a sort of geographic identity which is quite different from social identity experienced on the island. PEI- has no physical contact with the mainland which in its own way allows life to go on its course by itself, to develop separate patterns and foster uncommon relationships amongst humans and nature.
There is an island way of surviving!
 Red sand dunes |
