Dec 23
rd 2014, 08:00 hours, we landed in Iquitos,
4 deg south of equator- the largest city in the world that cannot be reached by
road. Ajay and Arnab squeezed into place in front of the crowded baggage
carousel and watched the river of bundled possessions flow past. Sreeja finally
spotted our backpacks and while we were on our way to the parking lot together,
we were greeted by Carlos, the cheerful driver and representative from the Muyuna
Amazon Lodge. Two wheeled and three wheeled motor bikes moved in all directions
from all directions and Carlos took the opportunity to display his own stunt
driving skills through the spaghetti like traffic. The city centre was a hive
of activity. It was alive with people, market stalls, and street salesmen and
amidst all; there was the occasional modern office building.
After a short briefing at the Muyuna Lodge office, where we
collected our rain boots and water bottles, hopped aboard the motorized boat
and cast off into the muddy waters of the mighty Amazon River.
We watched the shore slip by; passed the
confluence of Maranon and Ucayali rivers, considered to be the point where
Amazon River begins, and sped down the Amazon into the rain forest, the
planet’s oldest and most spectacular land habitat.
After an hour and half, the boat stopped for
a fifteen minute break at small town. Here we passed by a ferry with passengers
and loads of vegetables, fishes and other goods for local market. As we drifted
down the river, we were literally rolling in the bosom of the Selva, as the
Peruvian Amazon is known. The Amazon River weaves through the rainforest, with
over 1000 tributaries flowing into it. After a three hour boat ride from Iquitos,
we reached the Muyuna Lodge located on the bank of Inayako River, a tributary
of Amazon River. Nestled deep within the shady confines of Loreto reserve, the
lodge would be our home for the next four days. The bungalows were cozy,
intimate and provided a just- out- the- front -door access to the enveloping
lushness of the wilderness.
It was
indeed secluded with no cell network, Wi-Fi or TV and the dining area lit up by
a few 40 watt bulbs, glowing feebly with generator run electricity until 10 PM.
The hot humid weather created a haze that rested heavily on the rainforest and
the river. Black clouds rolled in later in the afternoon, bringing in rain and
lightning. Once the downpour stopped and after a quick dinner, we set out with
our guide Julio on a boat to get a glimpse of the nocturnal life on the river.
As our flashlights reflected off the trees, lianas
crisscrossed every level of the rainforest, creating a network of narrow roads
travelled by all manner of monkeys, reptiles and insects. Every now and then, I
saw a pair of eyes glint in the darkness and I wondered whom they belonged to.
Frogs and insects were chirping along with the perpetual hum of cicadas. High
above, the call of Potoo- eerily similar to a human- whistle followed us, and
just as we turned, Julio spotted a Potoo (an owl like bird) on top of a branch.
After taking few pictures, Julio turned the flashlights to the front. We sat
peering into the darkness in search of nocturnal creatures. All of a sudden a
flock of fishing bats crisscrossed over our head and while we were busy
covering our heads ducking to stay clear of the bats, Julio put his hands in
the water and fished out a baby Caiman (crocodilian reptile). Voila!! We had the
closest view of a spectacled baby Caiman about 18 inches in length. It had a
bony ridge between its eyes, which made it look like as if it was wearing a
pair of spectacles. The eyes with vertical pupils were positioned high on
Caiman’s head allowing it to see above the water while the rest of the body remained
submerged. We took turns holding the caiman and posing for pictures. It was indeed
comical when Arnab shrieked at the thought that I might drop the caiman on him. Julio released the caiman in the river
and it immediately vanished in the abundance of water lettuce. Later we spotted
a few small colourful frogs. Finally we decided to call it a day and headed back
to our lodge, all excited in anticipation.
 |
| Potoo perched on top of a branch |
|
We woke up to the tune of a hundred different Amazonian noises!
Julio called us out and we boarded a skiff that took us deep into the mangrove
forest.
We were soon out hiking in the forest. Beneath my feet the
moss and the leaves were as thick and lush as any carpet. Every step sank an
inch, as soon as I put my weight on it. The noise emanating from its recess was
louder than ever- a kind of green noise, indelibly live. There were hundreds of sounds blended
together –caw-caws, parrots, parakeets, monkeys, insects, humming birds, all
declaring their inarticulate existence in one undifferentiated shriek. It came
from all directions at once, everywhere and nowhere, out there and in here. I closed my eyes and stood dumbstruck; it was
so noisy! At times the jungle seemed as
silent as it was dark, and at other times the sounds were almost cacophonous.
Amazon is the home to the most deadly vipers in the world,
but we were more freaked out by the bugs. Never had I seen so many insects.
There were hundreds of those tiny creatures in all shapes and colours flying
around us. They buzzed and hummed around our eyes and bit any bare part possible.
Poor Sreeja’s face was swollen with bug bites. She was not willing to wear the
head nets when we had left the lodge in the morning, but soon she changed her
mind and completely covered her head and face. Under the shadowy maze of tree
trunks, we saw a large tarantula crawling out of its silk-lined burrows. The
forest floor was full of colourful fungi that grew out of deadwood; colourful
bromeliads that peeped out of thick vines. Flowers as big as my head blossomed
full beneath the trees; sunlight was scarce this close to the jungle's
floor;
the trees spread their roots above the ground in great fan-shaped buttresses
draped in moss. After a three hour hike we felt our nerves and will sapping. Ajay was all bitten on his balding head. In a
momentary act of profound conviction, he took the bush cutter from Julio,
lifted his arm and yelped pretending to be the Jungle Lord and posed in front
of the buttress roots. Arnab did not miss the opportunity and took a memorable
photograph. We realised that we had seen and heard enough for one morning. We
quickened our pace, our ears filled with sounds, clothes smelling of the jungle
and finally we were back at the boat! Sweat trickled down my chest and I sipped
on a bottle of water. We had our
breakfast on the boat. The Mangrove trees lined the moist river estuary, with their
roots jutting out of the thick river silt. As we paddled down the river, the
breeze came up, a pair of white collared hawks watched us from the top of a
tree, a three toed sloth hung upside down from the branch, the russet backed
Oropendolas were busy picking small tree branches to weave their nest with special
skill, a black and white hawk- eagle perched on top of the tree waiting for its
favourite prey - the squirrel and the monkey, a gorgeous great Egret
groomed its plumage to improve its
looks, the king vulture with the appealing colour of its head and eyes sat on its favourite spot - the luminous
surface of the tree tops . Either to attract or to remain unseen, these
combinations of tones and designs that range from classy to outrageous, prove
that the feathers of the birds are the best canvas that nature could find to
give splendour. I had brought a camera
but it did not help much, as I needed a zoom telephoto lens to capture such
special moments; however I tried taking a few pictures and continued watching the
flora and fauna through my binoculars.
In the afternoon we paddled along the dense foliage along
the banks and the expansive horizon of the cloud forest. Sreeja was very
excited this time as we were out with fishing lines and hooks. Using small
pieces of meat as bait, we trolled the line behind, almost immediately the line
jerked and hand over hand Sreeja pulled in a small Piranha. In the end we
caught six fishes between the four of us. On our way back Julio pointed at some
prehistoric birds- The Hoatzin, a strange bird with prehistoric appearance,
which is considered one of the oldest bird species on earth.
The sky was shimmering curtain of crimson,
violet and gold. Sreeja, Arnab and Ajay looked more tired and ragged than I had
ever seen them. I probably looked no better, but focusing on the forest helped
me to rejuvenate my senses.
Back at lodge in the evening Ajay produced a bag of Haldiram
snacks and next moment his hand disappeared once again and he magically pulled
out a bottle of “Old Monk Rum”, an old favourite poison for us. He also
organised a bottle of Cachaca, a local Amazonian alcohol. What a way to
celebrate our entry to the jungle on the Christmas Eve. Unscrewing the top and
taking a big swig, we toasted -Wow!!
Here’s to the Amazon jungle!!
Day 3, Dec 25
th, we went hiking in the morning
through the forest. The jungle remained unbroken, thick and foreboded. A mother
monkey and two infants broke apart at our approach and disappeared into the trees
and branches. We could hear the motions of branches and the rustling of leaves.
Mixed herd of spider monkeys, capuchin monkeys and squirrel monkeys, pigmy marmoset
moved forward through the tree tops, terrified but strangely in silence.
Probably the fearsome black and chestnut eagle had attacked them.
It was warm and the sky above us was festooned
with small clouds. We walked back to the lodge and had our breakfast.
It was time to take a skiff ride to see the
macaws. We spotted two blue and yellow macaws fighting for space on the branch
over the Itaya River. Next we saw a flock of red macaws and a pair of parakeet
flying across the blue sky
The birds spread seeds, contribute to the Amazonian scenery
with the glamour of both their singing and colourful plumage. Facing such
undeniable truth, one can only exclaim, just like Columbus did, that “we feel
especially attracted“!
In the afternoon, we visited a neighbouring village – Tansiyako.
Our guide, Julio had met his wife in this village, so he had soft corner for
Tansiyako. The villagers displayed some handicraft, handmade jeweleries for
sale. The local boys played a competitive game of soccer. It was interesting to
observe the rain harvesting techniques used by the villagers.
 |
| The Fer-de lance |
Darkness arrived suddenly. Julio took us out for a short
hike from the lodge before the Christmas dinner. The mosquitoes were a voracious
airborne scourge, yet we were out with our flash lights, boots and head nets.
Suddenly Julio spotted a snake –Fer-de-Lance in the wild and a little later two
huge glowing bull frogs. While I was trying my best to focus with my camera,
Arnab freaked and kept pulling me back and away.
After an hour we were back to the dining room for the
Christmas dinner, a meal of chicken, salad, rice, plantain, fried piranha.
There were visitors from all over the world and everyone was happy to be in the
company of his fellow adventurer. As one told a tale the others appreciated,
one offered a song the others swayed to the tune. It might also have been the
Old Monk Rum which did most of the talking!
May 26
th was our last day in the cloud forest. We
had our morning tea and then a skiff ride for an hour. On the way, our guide
and his partner pulled the skiff 50 feet into the river foliage, to show us the
amazing giant lily pads which had sharp spines on their underside to stop
aquatic animals from eating them.
After taking a close look at the lily pads,
we headed towards a bay, where we had our breakfast onboard. The first harbingers
of excitement were the pink and grey dolphins. We heard them gulping down air
before we saw the first one. They sporadically broke the surface, grabbed a
quick breath and dove back to the mucky depths. The guide steered the skiff to
a point where the river was wide and the water was clearer, it was time for us to
take a dip in the river. Hours slipped by quickly, as the boat slowly and
steadily continued down the river. The river meandered in infinite oxbows,
forks and loops as winded its way through the jungle. We found ourselves lost among
the tree choked mazes, in which water current seemed to disappear. Just then we
spotted a green Iguana lurking on the tree branches. Iguanas can grow to be 6.6
feet (2 m) long.
Back at the lodge we had a quick lunch and it was time to bid
goodbye. I saw a hummingbird flying backwards. The jungle was indeed magical! I
could not turn around and go back. Every sound, every glimpse will remain a
unique memory etched in the corner of my mind! Amazonia is and will remain Phenomena!!
NB:: Special thanks to Carol Schaer for sharing her Amazonia photographs
I texted Arnab, “Are we taking
backpacks or rolling bags?” Skype ping very next moment- “Rolling bags”- Father
and daughter’s voice high with alarm. I reckoned our resume of shared
adventures had made them a tad weary. So we decided to skip camping.
Next morning we piled into our car,
stopped at Grohmann knives factory, explored the world’s renowned handcrafted
knives and then headed out towards Cape Breton island. The thrill of being on
the road has always been wed for me, to the thrill of never knowing what a day
might involve, knowing only that I’d say “yes”. On the way we stopped at
Judique beach for a picnic lunch. After a brisk 20 minute walk through the woods,
we had a secluded shore all to ourselves, watched only by the tall pine, birch
and oak trees whispering to each other in the wind. We spread a blanket, shed
layers of clothes down to bathing suits and sat down for a bit. Sreeja and
Arnab played catch ball and a little rock pooling. When I remember that day, I cannot
help but think about how a place can look so different when we first arrive from
the place we later leave. How experience transforms the shape and color of
things.
We drove past the bespoke casks, resting
in the front of the distillery that sits right on Maclellan’s brook. The brook
carries soft, crystal, clear water from twenty springs that flow out of red
Cape Breton highlands granite and Mabou highlands marble, right through the
distillery that is spread over 265 hectares of pristine landscape. The brook
bounces rock to rock on its way to Gulf of St Lawrence. A 3785 Kilolitre water
holding reservoir in front of the distillery ensures that, regardless of
seasonal water levels in the brook, Maclellan water is always available for
distillation and for use if ever needed to put out a fire.
In the tranquil golden haze over the
garden along with bird song and the smell of hedges, clear frothy brook water gliding
over the rocks, I sat still sipping a dram from Glenora Distillery and for a
second was teleported back to an era of a whiskey’s gentlemanly interlude with a
raked path and a gleaming Rolls- Royce in the garage. This is a mountainous
part of Cape Breton where streams gush over granite, heather hills, and green
glens while inducing interesting flavors and aromas to the malt. The rolling
hills engulfed in the mountain air under the clear sky made for a beautiful
twilight setting. We had our dinner at the elegant dining room; its ceiling
to floor windows bringing in the outdoors. We enjoyed a tasting menu, which
started with salad, fresh salmon and ended with cheese cake. 
In the afternoon we played 9 holes at
the famed Cabot Links golf course. We
hit across a rugged slice of land near the Northumberland Strait, with holes
laid out along the scenic coast. It is a game of accuracy and one with focus should
do well. However if one misses the accuracy and over hits, trouble will be
found following all over the golf course. Golf Historians says that the game
originated from the ancient stick-whacks-ball pursuits in Rome, Holland and
China, but the seaside Scots developed golf into the game we play today. A Link is any rough grassy area between
the sea and the land. The sea winds, lumpy fairways, kinked putting surface all
added up to the challenge, so that it’s not about knocking the ball over the
golf course, but playing through one. There are nice vistas from several spots on
the course. 9th hole adjacent
to the coast is a protected plateau, rewarding golfers with a wonderful view
but a biting challenge. Sweeping wind with the scenic drama that renders this
seaside hole, both a golfers delight and a photographer’s fantasy. Cabot Links
encourage golfers to walk thus we did not have any guidance from the GPS, usually
installed in the golf carts. I had studied the course map, but somehow at the
end of 6 holes, I was all lost. The wispy long grass blocked our view of the
hole. All 3 of us used our own golf imagination and hit the ball in 3 different
directions. Arnab directed to the left that is to the waterfront, Sreeja was
careful and hit straight up, while me to extreme right- farthest away from the
hole. Father and daughter burst into fits of giggles. I usually love to see
them giggle, but I was disgusted that day. 
After a quick shower, we drove down to
Red Shoe pub at Mabou. A trance band was
playing their greatest hits. The pub is owned and run by the revolutionary music
band - “The Rankin Family”. The food was delicious and sitting down was utopia
as we were so tired. We could hardly walk another step. Sreeja finished her
seafood Penne with Mussels and Scallops in no time. A fun filled and joyous
restaurant with live music! I liked the décor from the moment I walked through
the main door. The Rankin Family does successfully bring a cozy creative touch
to a Back Road Paradise. As the sun set on the island, we were happy and tired,
listening to “Whisky as the sun goes down”
